The Atayal tribe is considered to have the largest distribution of all of Taiwan’s indigenous tribes extending from northern to central Taiwan and from western to eastern Taiwan. For example, the Atayal inhabit Taipei, Yilan, Hualien, Taoyuan, Hsinchu, Miaoli, Taichung and Nantou counties. The population of the tribe is around 76,000 according to Council of Indigenous Peoples statistics. It was once significantly larger, but in recent years the Taroko and Sediq, originally categorized as Atayal subtribes, have gained official recognition as tribes in their own right.

Originally, there was no chieftain in the Atayal society. Instead, social structure and relationships were governed by the gaga, a set of rules and taboos handed down from the ancestors. If there was a need for a decision that would affect the entire village, a temporary leader was chosen. During the time of their occupation of Taiwan (1895-1945), the Japanese appointed chieftains to better control the tribe and this evolved into a hereditary system.

One of the unique traditions of the Atayal, Taroko and Sediq is the practice of facial tattooing. These tattoos were a symbol of adulthood. Only those who had received these tattoos were eligible to marry. Among the men, usually a short, thick line was tattooed down the middle of the forehead and the middle of the chin. The facial tattoos of women were much more extensive with one or more short thick lines down the forehead and a continuous arc around the mouth and across both cheeks. To be considered worthy to receive a facial tattoo, a man had to prove himself a skilled warrior, well able to defend his family, and a woman a skilled weaver, well able to clothe her family.

There are many theories as to the purposes of such a custom. One is that the tattoos were a sign of recognition that a person belonged to this tribe and this would prevent “friendly fire” during times of war. It was also thought that facial tattoos would allow the Atayal to be recognized by their ancestral spirits after they passed away. According to tribal beliefs, it is necessary to cross a rainbow bridge to reach the spirit world after death and that one’s facial tattoo serves as a “passport” to the other side. Facial tattooing was phased out by the Japanese during their occupation of Taiwan and completely suspended in 1939. However, a young couple from an Atayal village in Taoyuan County named Dali and Sayun recently decided to revive this tradition and underwent facial tattooing as a sign of their unity as husband and wife. Their efforts have not been entirely encouraged, as some Atayal elders have criticized them for not using the correct patterns and not following the proper customs. With many young indigenous people living in urban areas to pursue study and work opportunities it is not likely that many of them will follow the example of Dali and Sayun. Thus, it is of utmost urgency and importance that facial tattoos be recorded. Kuei-Shih Tien, also known by his indigenous name Kimi Sibal, has been working for the past 15 years to do just that by photographing the elders of these three tribes. Many of the 300 men and women with facial tattoos that Kimi has photographed and interviewed have passed away. Only a few are left, among whom the youngest is now 92. Kimi founded the Atayal Tattoo Culture Museum in Xiulin Township of Hualien County, near the world famous Taroko Gorge, to display his works and traditional tattooing tools, as well as to give lectures on this aspect of Taiwan’s indigenous culture.

Since facial tattooing was a very important custom and for a woman was decided by the skill and complexity of her weaving, the women of the Atayal, Taroko and Sediq tribes excelled at this art form, creating some of the most complex patterns among all of Taiwan’s indigenous tribes. However, weaving cloth was a very arduous task. First, women had to grow ramie, a type of Asian hemp. Once it was harvested it had to be processed by peeling away the outer bark and the fibers had to be separated into threads before they were finally bleached and dyed. The actual weaving was carried out on a very simple horizontal backstrap loom that consisted of some planks, sticks and clubs placed over the outstretched legs. A favorite design featured smaller rhombi inside a larger rhombus and represented the protective “eyes of the ancestors”.

In the past decade or so, there has been an effort to revive the traditional art of weaving and workshops have sprung up in Atayal villages. One of the most accessible and well known of the Atayal areas is Wulai Township in Taipei County. It has become a premier tourist destination due to its natural hot springs. This tourism boom has severely diluted the Atayal culture in this area, but there are several weaving workshops and some Atayal artisans sell their handicrafts along busy Wulai Street. This street also features the Atayal cultural museum where visitors can learn more about Atayal history and traditions including weaving and facial tattooing.

In terms of music, the Atayal had traditional songs and some simple instruments such as a wooden xylophone and mouth harp. The xylophone was often used for transmitting messages to residents of a village. The mouth harp was common among many of the tribes, but is mostly associated with the Atayal. It was made from a piece of bamboo to which pieces of metal were inserted in the center. A string on one end was pulled while the harp was placed over the open mouth. The pitch was changed by varying the shape of the mouth.

For more information about Taiwan’s indigenous arts and handicrafts, go online to www.tribe-asia.com.