As an island nation surrounded by the sea it is not surprising that seafood is popular in Taiwan. Taiwan has a large fishing industry and no shortage of restaurants and night market stalls where you can sample some of the catch.

Taiwan's appetite for seafood is revealed in a report by New Zealand Trade and Enterprise that says Taiwanese consumed an average of 31 kilograms of fish per person in 2004. The size of Taiwan's fishing industry is revealed by the data which shows a catch of 1.3 million tonnes in 2005. The major species of fish in the local catch are tilapia, mackerel, tuna, squid, milk fish, albacore, shark, oil fish, oysters and Japanese eel. Fish caught from the sea account for 77% of Taiwan's fish production. The rest come from fish farms on land and sea.

While the fishing industry is an important part of the economy it has also been the subject of concern for its impact on the environment. There has been overfishing both in the waters surrounding Taiwan and by Taiwanese fishing boats internationally. In the last few years there have been many reports of Taiwanese fishing boats involved in overfishing various species of tuna. Earlier this month Greenpeace caught two Taiwanese longline tuna fishing vessels illegally transferring fish at sea in international waters between Papua New Guinea and the Federated States of Micronesia. Transferring fish at sea allows boats that don't have a licence to sell their fish via licenced boats.

Fish conservation is also a major issue within Taiwan's waters. For example the Wild at Heart Association has expressed concern about the conservation of the Taiwan humpback dolphin. The critically endangered humpback dolphin is endemic to waters off Taiwan's west coast. The dolphin faces threats from industrialisation and entanglement in fishing nets. Concerns about cetacean bycatch led to a petition by US conservation groups to ban the import of swordfish from Taiwanese gillnet and longline fisheries.

If you are a keen fisher then there are many chances to go fishing in Taiwan. As many of the waters are heavily fished by recreational fishers, many Taiwanese comment that it takes extra skill to catch fish there compared with other places in the world. Panfish and trout can be caught in mountain rivers and streams. Waters in more easily accessible locations such as large rivers and wharves and harbours are often heavily fished. Fishing supplies are readily available in stores close to any place where fishing is popular. Seek advice about the best equipment and bait for local conditions.

If you are not into recreational fishing the easiest way to get fresh fish is to buy it. A good way to see some of the variety of seafood on offer is to visit an early morning market. There you will see fish in all shapes and colors. You can select the fish that appeals to you and take it home and cook it yourself.

Not everyone wants to cook at home, but eating seafood in Taiwan doesn't need to be expensive. There are many night market stands selling dishes with fresh seafood at easy to afford prices. Oyster omelet is one of Taiwan's signature dishes and is available at many places around Taiwan. Another popular oyster based dish is oyster noodles, made from thin rice noodles and soup. Grilled squid is another kind of seafood commonly found in night markets.

If you want to spend a little more money then Taiwan has an abundance of seafood restaurants. Many of these restaurants have tanks out the front featuring a selection live seafood. If you are comfortable with having your meal killed on site, then you can be sure that the food you are getting will be very fresh. Prices at these restaurants can be very reasonable, but it is worth checking the price when ordering. Some special kinds of seafood may come with a very high price tag. At these restaurants diners usually sit at a big round table and share dishes in the traditional style. The head of the fish is regarded by many as a treat, so don't be surprised or offended when someone offers it to you.

The best places to eat fish are nearby fishing ports where you can always be sure of getting a good selection of fresh fish. In the north of Taiwan the port city of Keelung has a great selection of seafood. The Miaokou Night Market is one of Keelung's major tourist attractions and has a huge array of affordable snacks. The Bisha Fishing Port, near Heping Island, also has restaurants serving a wide selection of fresh seafood.

In the south of Taiwan visit Donggang, a fishing port about an hour south of Kaohsiung. It has many seafood restaurants and a lively fish market. Donggang claims to have the largest catch of bluefin tuna of any port in the world. It holds a Bluefin Tuna Cultural Festival every year in May or June. Other Donggang specialties are sakura shrimp and oil fish.

If you have the chance to travel to the islands of the Penghu archipelago you won't be disappointed. Its multitude of islands and coral reefs give it abundant fish resources. Some of the specialties are lobster and “five-flavour balloon fish”.

On the east coast Hualien is famous for its sunfish. Ocean sunfish are the heaviest bony fish in the world and are commonly caught in the waters off Hualien. The sunfish is especially rich in gelatin and dishes are prepared so the diner can appreciate the texture rather than the flavour.

Taiwan offers no shortage of choices and delights for connoisseurs of seafood. However, as mentioned above there are important conservation issues associated with some species of fish. Take the time to choose species which are not threatened and ensure that there are still more fish to eat in the future.

Written by David Reid