The traditional home of the Rukai tribe is considered to be Kochapongane, also known as Old Haocha, which is located in the southern Taiwan county of Pingtung. The Rukai refer to themselves as the people of the cloud leopard. According to tribal legend, there were two brothers who were the leaders of the tribe. As the tribe grew in numbers, they became concerned that the land upon which they were living would soon become insufficient. They decided to seek out a new living space, with the help of their trusty hunting companion, a cloud leopard. The leopard led them to the banks of a small clear lake in a beautiful valley and this became Old Haocha Village. Today, Old Haocha maintains a significant collection of traditional slate homes. This is because there are no roads to Old Haocha. The nearest one requires a walk of a few hours. Thus, this village does not see many visitors. A large proportion of its residents have also left, as the village's location made it difficult to find employment, health care, study and income-earning opportunities.

According to statistics from the Council of Indigenous Peoples, the Rukai's current population is around 11,000. It remains concentrated in southern Taiwan, such as in the Maolin Scenic Area of Kaohsiung County and Wutai Township of Pingtung County, but the Rukai can also be found in Taitung County in eastern Taiwan.

The Rukai maintain a social hierarchy of nobility and commoners, with the commoners working the land and the upper class taking a share of the harvest. However, the nobility figure prominently in the maintenance of traditions and the organization of special ceremonies. The women of this tribe excel at embroidery, decorating clothing with complicated designs. However, certain motifs, such as human figures and hundred pace pit viper, were only for the upper classes. In Maolin, long known for its large butterfly populations, ceremonial clothing once featured embroidered versions of these insects.

In addition to their clothing, women of the upper classes could be differentiated by the tattoos on the backs of their hands. A repeating cross pattern was reserved exclusively for the nobility. Noble women considered by the elders to be of virtue adorned their headdresses with a pure white lily during special ceremonies. For men, the white lily was an honor given to symbolize excellence in hunting or defending the village against enemy attacks.

Outside of special occasions and ceremonies, the Rukai women wore wreaths made from local plant materials that gave off a pleasant fragrance and that were esthetically pleasing. This tradition has all but disappeared, except among the elderly women of Upper Wutai Village in Pingtung.

Celebrations and ceremonies

The Rukai observe many traditions associated with various stages in life, such as blessings for infants and coming-of-age rites.

One of the major ceremonies is the annual millet harvest festival. Village residents give thanks for the year's harvest and hope for a coming year of plenty. Thus, this is both a celebration and a solemn occasion. The place upon which the ceremony takes place is considered sacred land. Visitors who would like to observe the festivities should take care not to step onto the ceremonial grounds, as traditional Rukai thought considers that such action will bring misfortune in the coming year. The ceremony begins with the entrance of the male elders and warriors bringing food offerings such as pork. Each of the males wears a headdress, and some are highly elaborate, alluding to a high status or a high number of honors received.

Millet cake is cooked before the ceremony and if it appears to be cooked just right, this implies a prosperous year for the village. If overcooked or undercooked, or eaten by insects, this could spell impending disaster or hardship.

The males of the village pray to the ancestors and tribal deities for blessings. It is also the men who partake of millet liquor. This sweet and sour liquor is brewed from millet only for use during special occasions. Usually, this millet liquor was given to the chieftain and elders of the tribe first, and if there was any remaining the younger members would be able to try some, but this was rare. Thus, the Rukai, as with most of the indigenous tribes in Taiwan, did not have a traditional drinking culture. In fact, in the Rukai language, there was no word for alcohol. Instead, millet liquor was referred to as "water that makes one less shy".

To include the females of the village and to infuse a festive air, a large tripod-like swing was prepared. Only unmarried women were allowed on the swing. A rope was hung from the middle of the tripod and at the end was a loop in which a woman could place her foot. She would receive a push to get her started, from one of the males of the village, and then she bent and extended her legs to swing higher. It is thought that the higher she rose, the closer she would be to heaven and the more blessings she would receive. This swing also features prominently in Rukai wedding ceremonies.

Experiencing Rukai culture firsthand

The millet harvest festival takes place around August 15 each year. One of the best places to see this ceremony is at the Wutai Elementary School in Upper Wutai. This is a joint ceremony among the villages of the area, thus it is quite large in scale.

Above this school is "Stone Slab Lane", a path lined with stone-carved illustrations of scenes from traditional Rukai culture. Stone carving, along with wood carving, was a traditional art form of this tribe. Those who excelled at carving were revered for their talent. The residents of Upper Wutai have worked hard to infuse their surroundings with cultural meaning. The facade of each of the homes is covered in slate, and often features the Romanized version of the family name of the residents. The lane also possesses one example of a traditional slate dwelling. Next to the entrance of the Wutai Elementary School is the Rukai Cultural Artifacts Hall, which houses historical objects of the tribe, including traditional clothing, decorative ornaments and pottery.

If not up to the hike to Old Haocha, the village of Duona in the Maolin Scenic Area possesses a collection of about 10 well-preserved traditional slate dwellings. One has been transformed into a local museum and visitors can look inside. The Rukai dwelling consisted of one large room with certain sections designated for use by women, such as the cooking area. The area for family worship ceremonies was the exclusive domain of the males.  The area under the slate floor was the family's burial grounds. Deceased family members who had died of natural causes were laid to rest there, to allow them to remain close to their loved ones.

Maolin is also the location of the first licensed millet liquor distillery in Taiwan. Thus, this is one place where it is possible to taste this traditional concoction.

For more information about Taiwan's indigenous culture and arts, go online to www.tribe-asia.com